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| Well, I can do T-Budding. I usually encounter some problems: How do I see that the bark is slipping? How to best open the flaps? I use chipping instead, because I am not able to get a sucessfull Bud-Take. So here is how I do: I sue a special budding knife, it has a bronze bark scaling spoon at the back side, to open the flaps cut in the bark. So I usually do the T-cut. I Cut down verticaly and place a horozontal cut at top, usually this cut has a slight slant. Not I work with the spoon side of the knife, to 'peel' the bark from the wood. Now I hold the budstick, the tip of the stick pointing away from me. With a drawing cut I cut-off the desired but, and if some bark at the but tp peel off, no matter about. If there is some wood under the bud, I doesn't peel is off.. Now I hold the bud with thumb and pointer-finger and slip it down the vertical cut, till the flaps hold it. I cut the horizontal cut again, to remove to much budwood at top and align the top Bud with the horizontal cut. Now I wrap the Bud from top to bottom with budding tape, tightly. But usually there is no bud take.... Any tipps and tricks? __________________ "If you provide enough heat and light, nothing will kill a citrus tree so easily." Dr. Heinz K. Wutscher, Florida |
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| The bark has to be slipping, almost like there is a lubricant between the bark and the wood. A sharp knife is essential. do not touch the cut surface with your hands or fingers. The best budwood is next to the last flush of growth. The budwood should be round and firm, not flexiable. Vinyl budding tape is the best to use. the bud should be completely wrapped. In the spring leave the bud wrapped 3 weeks. In the fall leave the bud wrapped for 5 weeks. Buds take best when the temp[erature is below 90 degrees F. |
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| Steffen, the bark will be slipping when there is new growth.. I usually wait at least a week after new growth.. one thing I was doing wrong was trimming the root stock a week or so before I would graft.. IF you trim/prun the root stock.. you should trim the day of grafting or wait 3 weeks (if I remember right) after trimming root stock to graft on it.. or wait till after the graft has taken.. Be sure to sterilize equipment as you go.. and hands as well.. I have used a number of things as bark lifters.. just make sure it is sterile and is not sharp... I use rubbing alcohol to sterilize hands and equipment.. Hope these tips help.. Gina *BabyBlue* |
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| THX Gina. I allways have the problem to peel the bark from the wood ![]() I use a benzalconium chloride soulution for sterilizising my tools. To hard? What should I use, any advise? __________________ "If you provide enough heat and light, nothing will kill a citrus tree so easily." Dr. Heinz K. Wutscher, Florida |
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| I think this might be your problem.. Though I'm not good with chemicals and I researched it and it does sounds a bit on the harsh side.. a simple way to find out is try using something else.. maybe some one with more knowledge about chemicals will chime in about it. Gina *BabyBlue* |
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| Dilute chlorox (sodium hypochorite) 4 part water to one part chlorox) Dip the tools (knife and pruning shears) for about 5 seconds. Then thoroughly rinse with water. Do this when changing scions. Last edited by buddinman : 09-23-2007 at 06:19 PM. |
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